Drank too much last night? Here’s where to eat. Today: proper grilled eel in Asakusa — without the two-hour line.
Quick Facts
| Nearest station | Asakusa Station (Ginza Line / Asakusa Line / Tobu), 5-min walk; also near Tawaramachi Station |
|---|---|
| Budget | ¥3,500–4,500 per person (about $25–30) |
| Cash or card | Cash only — no cards, no IC, no QR |
| Smoking | Non-smoking |
| Reservations | Not accepted — walk-in only |
| Hours | Lunch 11:30–14:00, dinner 16:00–20:00 (Sun open all day); closed Thursdays |
A Quiet Unagi Spot Near Sensoji Temple
Asakusa on a weekday lunch is no joke. I came here craving unagi (freshwater eel) or tempura, and every famous place had a line out the door — mostly fellow travelers, so you know exactly what I was up against. Then, wandering toward Sensoji Temple, I spotted Koyanagi: a classic old eel restaurant, dignified wooden storefront, and — miracle of miracles — seats available.
If the big-name unagi and tempura spots are all full, this is your backup plan — and honestly, it might just be your first plan.
Unaju: Grilled Eel Over Rice
Unaju is charcoal-grilled eel glazed with a sweet-savory soy sauce called tare, served over rice in a lacquered box. Koyanagi’s tare runs sharper and less sweet than most — it soaks into the rice and makes the whole box taste like one dish instead of eel sitting on plain rice. The eel itself is on the smaller side with the odd fine bone (totally normal for unagi), and the rice is cooked soft. I also added kimosui (¥110), a clear soup with the eel’s liver — sounds intense, tastes clean and restorative. Exactly what a rough morning ordered.
Matsu vs. Take: Which One to Order
Here’s the ordering hack. Unaju comes in two grades: Matsu (¥4,070) and Take (¥3,520). At most unagi restaurants, the pricier one means more eel. Not here — the staff told me straight up that both use exactly one whole eel; the ¥550 difference is just extra rice. I ordered both to check, and it’s true. Unless you desperately want more rice, get the Take and spend the change on a beer.
Access & Practical Tips
- About 5 minutes on foot from Asakusa Station, tucked away from the main Nakamise shopping street — which is why it stays calmer than the famous spots.
- Weekday lunch is your best bet; unagi is a lunch culture thing anyway. Note the afternoon break (14:00–16:00) and that it’s closed on Thursdays.
- Bring cash — no cards accepted. No reservations either, but that’s the point: this is the place you walk into when everywhere else has a line.
- They also serve toriju (chicken over rice, ¥1,430) if someone in your group doesn’t do eel, plus small plates like eel omelet and yakitori that go well with sake.
Hangover Recovery Index
My completely unscientific Hangover Recovery Index: 4 out of 5. Rich grilled eel, warm rice, and that liver soup — unagi has been Japan’s stamina food for centuries, and your morning-after self will understand why.
Eat well, drink better, and see you at the next hangover.