A note on the words: unaju is grilled freshwater eel basted in a savory-sweet tare sauce and served over rice in a lacquered box, while kabayaki refers to the grilled eel itself. Uzaku is grilled eel tossed with cucumber in vinegar, umaki is grilled eel rolled inside a dashi omelet, unagi chimaki is rice and eel wrapped in a leaf, jiyaki is the Kansai method of grilling eel crisp directly over heat without steaming, and warabimochi is a chilled, chewy confectionery made from bracken starch.
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Unagi no Toki on Tabelog (English) — opening hours, payment details and the Japanese address are kept up to date there, not here.
Hello, this is Hangover Meshi. Looking around to see if there were any new openings around Akasaka, word reached me that an eel spot was opening! Searching online, I found a YouTube video. Apparently it is produced by Nogizaka Shin (a well-known Japanese restaurant), serving eel during the lunch hours under the name “Unagi no Toki.” Well now, I definitely wanted to try it, so I made a reservation right away. It is wonderful being able to get around so easily when it is in the Akasaka, Roppongi, and Aoyama area. I wonder if it is in the exact same location as Nogizaka Shin? The restaurant sits near Nogi Kaikan.
With a reservation for 12:00, I went inside and was shown to the counter. A beautiful wooden counter that felt very welcoming.
Unagi course — 8,000 yen
They told me only the lunch course was being offered for this visit, so I had already requested that.
A variety of dishes arrive throughout the course, finishing with unaju. At the end they ask whether you prefer an unaju or kabayaki served on a plate — unaju, of course!
And so, the course began.
For the opening drink, I had plans later and could not drink alcohol, so I asked for a cold tea.
There were various cold teas available, but thinking bancha would be nice, I chose this one.
It is not alcohol, ha.
A wonderfully refreshing aroma. The light touch of acidity is lovely too. It is certainly tea, but the kind you want to sip slowly!
The dashi (Japanese stock) jelly is wonderful. It brings a cool freshness that is perfect for the warming weather.
The tairagai (pen shell), with a sharp peppery kick, is superb, and above all, the asparagus is delicious!
Next, the eel made its appearance!
On the left is umaki. On the right is unagi chimaki. In the back is uzaku.
Beyond the crisp surface texture, the concentrated flavor of the eel spreads gently and is utterly delicious!!
The seeds of the cucumber have been neatly removed — remarkably meticulous work. Delicious.
In the umaki, the softly rolled egg and the eel pair exceptionally well together. This umaki might well be the best I have ever had.
A soup where the full flavor of eel takes center stage.
Taking a sip, the aroma and savor of the eel rush through your mouth.
Inside along with the broth are liver and skin — delicious. The small sprig of kinome (young sansho leaf) perched on top gives it a delightfully sharp accent.
Being produced by a renowned Japanese restaurant surely shows.
Every single dish leading up to the unaju was overwhelmingly delicious. In the sashimi of isaki (chicken grunt) and aori-ika (bigfin reef squid), the tender aori-ika practically melts in the mouth. Squeezing a bit of sudachi citrus over them… Delicious! The isaki as well; the sashimi was truly superb.
The octopus and burdock here have been simmered until extraordinarily tender. The flavors have soaked in deeply, delicious.
Simmered with azuki beans, we were told, leaving the octopus tender and falling apart. Tender enough that you wonder if octopus can really become this soft.
And coming this far, the finale: the unaju.
We were told the rice this time was Hinohikari, and that large portions were available too.
However, having eaten quite a bit across the course so far, I asked for a regular portion. And what arrived was…
Ta-daaa!
Whoaaa, that looks amazing!!!
Taking a bite, the outside is crisp, with a texture like Kansai-style jiyaki (direct grilling without steaming). Yet the flesh is wonderfully fluffy.
I had thought so from the earlier eel dishes, but the skin is noticeably firm. It is an eel raised in salt water, apparently, which they say makes it closer to wild eel. Perhaps the firm skin is thanks to that. They also consider the texture when eaten with rice down to the finest detail, so I was told. No wonder it tastes so good.
The fairly firm skin is grilled crisp, and together with the fluffy flesh,
the tare sauce — sweet yet sharp — is an ideal match for the rice. Because the eel has such a robust flavor,
even without having it as unaju, sipping sake with the kabayaki as a snack would surely be bliss!! It was such a shame I could not drink today, ha.
The eel is laid on generously in large portions, and the volume leaves nothing to complain about! I ended up completely full.
Sudachi, mango, and warabimochi (bracken-starch jelly), I think. A crisp, refreshing dessert.
Truly, whether because of the saltwater-raised eel or not, I had rarely had eel with skin this firm, making it a completely new experience.
And then this course: how every dish leading up to the unaju was exquisite was impressive, ha. At places that serve unagi courses, I often find myself wishing they would just serve the unaju, but what is amazing about “Unagi no Toki” is that everything from start to finish is delicious. While the classic fluffy Kanto style is wonderful too, this kind of eel could really grow on me. I am so glad a place like this has opened somewhere I can get to easily! Apparently they said, “Once June starts the shop goes into renovations, but once that finishes we will be running it again,” so I want to visit again after renovations finish! If you want to try it, May might be your chance!
Unagi no Toki (Unagi (Eel) / Nogizaka Station, Aoyama-itchome Station, Roppongi Station)
Tabelog lunch rating★★★★☆ 4.5
I ate here and paid for it myself. Nothing on this site is a comped meal.
One more for the road?
