A note on the words: ryotei is a traditional, high-end Japanese restaurant, and kaiseki refers to an elaborate multi-course Japanese meal highlighting seasonal ingredients. Shabu-shabu involves gently swishing thinly sliced meat through hot broth, whereas sukiyaki simmers it in a rich soy-and-sugar base. Chawanmushi is a silky steamed savory egg custard, and temari-zushi are dainty ball-shaped sushi often prepared for festive gatherings.
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Miyama Tei on Tabelog (English) — opening hours, payment details and the Japanese address are kept up to date there, not here.
Hello, this is Hangover Meshi. Going a bit further afield this time, I traveled to Nagano. Lunch this time was at what is said to be a long-established, high-end ryotei (a traditional high-end Japanese restaurant) in Nagano! Driving up the hill, a handsome building appeared amidst the greenery, perched on the slope of the hill. The establishment is called Miyama Tei, a place where they serve Shinshu beef. It has quite a wonderful atmosphere, wouldn’t you say?
Shinano beef and Jinhua pork shabu kaiseki, 8 courses in all — 6,000 yen
Miyama kaiseki (monthly special), 8 courses — 6,000 yen
Shinano beef sukiyaki kaiseki, 8 courses in all — 6,000 yen
Shinano beef shabu kaiseki, 8 courses in all — 6,000 yen
Jinhua pork shabu kaiseki, 8 courses in all — 6,000 yen
Shinano beef steak kaiseki, 8 courses in all — 6,000 yen
Children’s kaiseki — 2,500 yen
It seems the lunch courses vary depending on what main dish is included.
They all look tempting, but this time I had the Shinano beef steak kaiseki arranged for me! As it was a gathering with children as well, we also ordered the children’s kaiseki.
To begin with, I ordered a highball.
Is there really a whisky called “Zenkoji”? Since it sounded unusual, I asked for it mixed with soda.
It was easy to drink and delicious!
The children’s kaiseki came out first, and it was so astonishing that it caught me completely by surprise!
No, really, ha — it looks far better than the menu photo!
The volume is immense: a mountain of fried potatoes, chicken karaage, fried shrimp, sausage, and hamburg steak.
And to top it off, both tartar sauce and ketchup.
A platter packed with everything kids love; a true dream dish, ha.
On top of that, it comes with a separate chawanmushi (savory egg custard) and sashimi of Shinshu salmon.
And the rice is kanpyo-maki (dried gourd rolls) and kappa-maki (cucumber rolls). Well, if a child could clean this all up with ease, they wouldn’t really be a child anymore, ha.
The grown-ups happily finished off the leftover dishes.
The appetizers: scallop fried in almonds, potato, shiitake mushroom, and temari-zushi (ball-shaped sushi).
After this came sashimi of Shinshu salmon and striped jack (I forgot to take a picture).
A clear soup with hamo (pike conger),
and then the main event: Shinshu beef!
It is thick, and the sashi (marbling) of the fat is incredible.
First up is grilling the vegetables.
After that, the meat goes onto the grill, and it looks mouthwatering!
The beautifully grilled steak is tender and delicious!
The fat is exceptionally tasty. I thought I might devour it in no time, but…
it was such fine meat that towards the end it sat a bit heavy on the stomach, ha.
To refresh the palate, mozuku seaweed,
and when you think of Shinshu, it has to be soba! Cold, and very good!
So, I visited this ryotei in Nagano, and even during the day a breeze blew through, making it feel delightfully cool. The Shinshu beef was delicious, though having half of the meat served as shabu-shabu might have been even nicer. The children’s kaiseki was easily the most generous one I have ever seen, and honestly the fried chicken was amazingly good, so I think this place is well worth looking forward to!
Miyama Tei (Japanese Cuisine / Zenkojishita Station, Hongo Station, Gondo Station)
Tabelog lunch rating ★★★☆☆ 3.3
I ate here and paid for it myself. Nothing on this site is a comped meal.
One more for the road?
