A note on the words: goma saba is fresh raw mackerel tossed in fragrant sesame-miso sauce, a Kyushu specialty rarely served raw elsewhere, and ika no ikizukuri is live squid sliced into translucent sashimi ribbons whose head and tentacles (geso) come back deep-fried as karaage. Mizutaki is Fukuoka’s chicken hot pot simmered in a thick two-day poultry broth, while motsunabe is a hot pot of tender beef offal, cabbage, and garlic chives. Mentaiko is spicy cured pollack roe served raw, seared, or fried, and shima rakkyo are pungent Okinawan shallots mellowed here by light tempura batter. Otoshi is the cover-charge appetizer that opens an izakaya meal, here a delicate fish dumpling (shinjo).
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Nana Haruyoshi ten on Tabelog (English) — opening hours, payment details and the Japanese address are kept up to date there, not here.
Hello Hakata, thanks for waiting. It’s Hangover Meshi time (meshi means meal)!
This time, I was in Hakata. The spot I chose for dinner was Nana Haruyoshi ten! I picked it because it offered private dining rooms and the menu looked like it featured several classic Hakata specialties all in one place. With no sense of local geography, I took a taxi nearby, and after staring intently at the map, I finally found it!
Looking over the menu, I began ordering what I wanted a la carte!
Ah! Before I realized it, I had already ordered a beer.
Delicious!
The mackerel is reportedly live catch from Nagasaki. Fresh raw mackerel is hard to come by in Tokyo, making it an absolute must-try whenever you visit Kyushu. The toasty aroma of sesame rises first, followed gently by the rich, mellow sweetness of miso. The flesh is plump and firm, turning even richer and more delicious the more you coat it in sauce. The only drawback is having to choose between the three options — white, black, or sesame miso. I really wish they would offer a sampler platter with all three, ha.
On a white wavy plate, the mantle sliced into fine noodles lets the light shine through, while alongside sit the head and tentacles (geso) with their vivid spots still clearly defined. A sight you only see when it is truly fresh!
Taking a bite, an almost clinging sweetness greets your tongue first! With every chew it offers a crisp, firm snap, leaving behind the gentle, savory depth characteristic of fresh squid. Salt and lemon bring out that sweetness even more vividly, but…
They also provide Kyushu sweet soy sauce blended with an egg yolk. Eating it with this brings a mellow, sweet harmony that is simply delicious. It makes the perfect drinking food alongside a shochu highball. This squid is seasonal from around March to October, and arrivals are limited, so consider yourself lucky if they have it in stock!
By the way, the squid tentacles are cleared away for a moment. (When I noticed they were uncut and asked for scissors, they told me they would fry them as karaage or tempura later whenever I was ready!)
Since I was a bit hungry, I ordered something with rice too!
I usually eat shima rakkyo (Okinawan shallot) raw, but here it came as tempura. Frying softens it and leaves the aroma mild, making it very approachable. That said, if you love the sharp punch and pungency of raw shallots, it might feel a touch subdued, ha.
On a footed square plate, rich braising juices pool beneath a slice of round eggplant topped with a block of kakuni (braised pork belly). Crowned with finely shredded white leek and seaweed, it looks like a miniature tower. The glossy sheen on the eggplant is simply gorgeous!
The sweet and savory soy glaze comes forward first, and when you bite into it, the tender pork fat melts away luxuriously. The Itoshima pork belly is exceptionally soft, packed with rich pork sweetness. The grilled round eggplant at the base has soaked up the braising liquid beautifully, offering a silky, succulent bite. I highly recommend this dish.
Motsunabe (offal hot pot) is an essential Kyushu staple too! I went with the soy-sauce-based motsunabe.
It is a straightforward, classic motsunabe. While you can find famous motsunabe spots in Tokyo as well, there is something special about savoring motsunabe right here in Kyushu! The shochu disappeared at an alarming rate. As drinking food, it is unbeatable.
And after a little while, the fried squid legs (geso karaage) arrived!
Act two! I had the squid tentacles prepared as karaage. The crisp, freshly fried coating crackled pleasantly. Cooking fresh squid makes it tender and accentuates its natural sweetness. Having what started as exquisite sashimi return to the table as delicious fried squid legs is such a treat!
So there you have it: I visited an izakaya where you can sample Hakata specialties across the board. Every room seemed to be private, and enjoying a relaxed dinner with dishes as fresh as live squid sashimi felt quintessentially Hakata. As an all-in-one experience of local specialties, it was fantastic!
May you encounter delicious food today too!
Nana Haruyoshi ten Menu
Today’s Specials
Sashimi platters served one slice per variety. Seasonings like moshio (seaweed salt), awayuki salt, Kinzanji miso, or dashi-ponzu jelly are paired to complement each fish.
1 serving. Portions adjusted according to party size
1 serving
1 serving
Kagoshima origin, 100g
Vegetables & Drinking Snacks
Dusted with freshly shaved Parmigiano
Yuba (Tofu Skin)
With yuzu kosho
With rock salt and moshio seaweed salt
House Specialty (House-made Mentaiko)
Meat
With fig Japonaise sauce
Sukiyaki style
Served with rock salt and wasabi
Miso oil sauce
Seiro Steaming (Bamboo Steamers)
Steam-cooked A5 Imari beef sirloin or well-marbled Itoshima pork belly alongside seasonal vegetables.
Hot Pot
1 serving. Choose between soy sauce or miso broth
From 1 or 2 servings. Paitan broth made from whole chickens simmered over two days
1 serving. Prepared with two varieties of bonito dashi, enjoyed together with the broth
From 1 or 2 servings
Hot Pot Additions
Donabe Clay Pot Rice
2-3 servings
2-3 servings
2-3 servings
*Takes about 40 minutes from order. Please order at least 30 minutes before last call.
Rice Dishes & Dessert
Alcohol | Beer & Highball
Signboard note: ‘Focusing on domestic spirits, selected for refreshing highballs.’
Made with rice shochu from Yatsushiro Shiranui-gura in Kumamoto
With spicy ginger syrup
*Whiskies can also be served on the rocks or with water. Singles are priced the same as highballs.
Alcohol | Craft Gin, Wine & Fruit Liqueurs
Miyagi MCG. Yuzu, juniper berry, sencha green tea, and water dropwort
Nara Yamato Distillery. Made with Yamato tachibana and Yamato toki
Full bottles listed on a separate menu
France / Half bottle, approx. 3 glasses
Chile, Carmenere
Sours & Cocktails
The top 6 items are craft cocktails. The 2 gyokuro cocktails use house-made liqueur infused with Yame gyokuro green tea.
Made with Tantakatan shiso shochu
Non-Alcoholic & Soft Drinks
Craft cola from Shimo-Ochiai, Tokyo
*From the menu during the visit. Prices include tax; 3% service charge extra. Offerings change with the season. Please check official site or restaurant for latest information.
Nana Haruyoshi ten (Izakaya / Tenjin Minami Station, Nakasu Kawabata Station, Kushida Shrine Station)
Tabelog dinner rating ★★★☆☆ 3.5
I ate here and paid for it myself. Nothing on this site is a comped meal.
One more for the road?
