A note on the words: motsuyaki are skewers of pork or beef offal grilled over fire, and tare is a glossy sweet-savory soy glaze. Shiro refers to pork large intestine, prized for its chewy, rich texture. Motsu nikomi is tender offal gently simmered in a seasoned broth with tofu and konjac (a firm, gelatinous cake made from the konjac yam). Ameyoko is the lively, open-air market street running alongside the elevated train tracks near Ueno Station.
Table of Contents hide
Daitoryo on Tabelog (English) — opening hours, payment details and the Japanese address are kept up to date there, not here.
Hello, this is Hangover Meshi. I headed to Ueno with some shopping to do. While shopping was the main purpose, you naturally find your feet drifting toward the bar district anyway, so I made my way toward Ameyoko (the Ameya-Yokocho market street beside Ueno Station). When I walked past “Motsuyaki Daitoryo,” well known in Ueno, there were actually open seats, ha! I had checked a branch shop first and it was full, so I had not gotten my hopes up, but what luck!
Motsuyaki, two skewers — from 180 yen
Motsuyaki assortment — 450 yen
Ninety yen a skewer is cheap!
Well then, of course I ordered a beer first, and then went for the motsu nikomi (simmered offal) and the motsuyaki assortment!
There really is nothing better than beer served in an ice-cold glass!
So good!
And this is only 450 yen, ha!
Tongue, heart, liver, and shiro (pork large intestine) — I really do think motsuyaki is at its best with tare (a sweet-savory soy glaze).
This sweet-savory glaze goes wonderfully with beer.
This nikomi is fantastic too!
A fairly lightly seasoned motsu nikomi. The tofu served with it has soaked up all the flavors nicely. Each piece of offal is big and chunky, with real substance to it, which might be what sets it apart from other shops. The ingredients are simple — just konjac and scallions — but the juicy savory umami oozing from the offal is irresistible!
In the end, I finished off three beers with just these two dishes!
Thoroughly satisfied with the delicious motsuyaki and nikomi! A place like this is not meant for lingering long, after all! (Speaking strictly for myself, ha.) Dropping in briskly, having a quick bite, and slipping right out to the next spot — that is the style I would recommend! Even so, getting into Daitoryo’s main branch was such a stroke of luck. It is definitely a place I want to peek into again and stop by whenever there is a free seat.
Daitoryo (Izakaya / Keisei Ueno Station, Ueno-okachimachi Station, Okachimachi Station)
Tabelog lunch rating ★★★☆☆ 3.5
I ate here and paid for it myself. Nothing on this site is a comped meal.
One more for the road?
