Donjaka, Shinjuku: The Last-Train Stop That Serves Its Pickles Frozen

A note on the words: nozawana is the pickled leaf green of Nagano, normally eaten chilled — this shop serves it frozen. Bonjiri is the fatty tail cut on a yakitori skewer. Prices are as of this writing (August 2026).

Donjaka main shop

Donjaka main shop on Tabelog (English) — opening hours, payment details and the Japanese address are kept up to date there, not here.

Drinkers, thank you for waiting. It is Hangover Meshi time.

There is still a while until the last train! I want another drink!” — everyone thinks this, do they not?! I was drinking around Shinjuku-sanchome and thought exactly that. And there was no need to wander in search of a shop: a bold yellow-and-black sign stood right in front of me. Its name: “Donjaka”!

Donjaka main shop
The kind of sign that makes you think “ah, here will do!”

A peek inside to see whether there was room — and there were a couple of counter seats free!

So in we went for a little while.

I could not eat very much, so the plan was drinks first with a few things that caught my eye.

A frozen “you know what”, of all things!

First: barley shochu with soda!!

A frozen “you know what”, of all things!
By the second bar of the night, the opening drink has become a barley-shochu soda

Having already drunk a fair amount, light things to pick at are what you want.

Nozawana!

Nozawana!

First order: pickles. Nozawana. My soul pickle!

And on serving it: “we freeze it deliberately!” Look closely and yes — it is frozen!

How interesting. One bite and it is superb! A crystalline crunch added to nozawana — outrageously good! What is this?! In summer it would be perfect!

I am definitely doing this next time I buy nozawana pickles!

Bonjiri (200 yen a skewer)

Bonjiri (200 yen a skewer)

A few yakitori as well — bonjiri (the tail). Bite in and the skin is crisp and toasty, and a rush of fatty savour surges out from inside. Delicious.

広告
紀州南高梅 つぶれ梅
¥1,595 前後 Amazon 楽天市場
大塚製薬 経口補水液 オーエスワン 500ml×24本
¥4,045 前後 Amazon 楽天市場

Liver (150 yen a skewer)

Liver (150 yen a skewer)

And this is liver. Order yakitori and you cannot skip it!

Interestingly, it is skewered in a slight wave! Firm outside, kept towards rare inside, and biting in, that sticky, deep liver savour comes flooding out. Liver really does change character entirely with the cooking. Not something I can manage at home^^

And on these three dishes I drank about five barley-shochu sodas before stopping!

Thank you for the meal!

Above all, what astonished me was that method of eating nozawana pickles! I had no idea freezing them made them this good. Someone should make nozawana-flavoured ice cream. It was so good I have resolved to do it at home this summer. I could not order much food, but everything was very reasonably priced. Next time I shall bring a larger group and make some proper noise.

May you meet something good to eat today too.

HANGOVER MESHI REVIEW
Taste
Value
Atmosphere
Service
Hangover food
Could-drink-until-morning factor

Donjaka main shop (izakaya / Shinjuku-sanchome Station, Shinjuku-gyoenmae Station, Shinjuku Station)
Tabelog dinner rating ★★★☆☆ 3.3

I ate here and paid for it myself. Nothing on this site is a comped meal.