A note on the words: poêlé is the French technique of cooking in a pan so the surface takes on a crisp, browned skin. Confit means meat cooked slowly in fat until it falls apart. Choron sauce is a bearnaise enriched with tomato. A rapée is a French side of raw vegetable shredded fine and dressed. Hostellerie is an old French word for an inn.
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Hostellerie Suzuki on Tabelog (English) — opening hours, payment details and the Japanese address are kept up to date there, not here.
Hello, this is Hangover Meshi. What I am introducing this time is “Hostellerie Suzuki,” which has moved from Akasaka to Nogizaka (in Japanese)!
They were due to open on March 1, 2025, but I heard that just before that, on February 27–28, they would hold a pre-opening, so I decided to stop by at lunchtime.
The old location was in Akasaka. It was the kind of place you went down below ground to reach!
The new place is along the same street, but well over toward Nogizaka. Right next to the Nogizaka station exit — a zero-minute walk, ha.
Menu A: 1,650 yen
Menu B: 2,200 yen
Menu A gives you a main, dessert and a drink; Menu B adds an hors d’oeuvre on top of that.
During the pre-opening you can choose your main from the confit of young chicken on the bone or the poêlé salmon.
This time I chose Menu A.
First out was the bread! It comes with a potato spread on the side, which you spread on the bread.
Ohhh! Quite a volume. And it looks good!
Salmon poêlé in the French way, crisp on the outside. One bite in and the cooking is seriously well judged!
Moist and soft inside, crisp outside. The Choron sauce of egg yolk and tomato is delicious too. In fact, that they pour the sauce on without stinting is a joy in itself. It goes well with the salmon and it is good. It is remarkable that dusting salmon with flour and cooking it turns it into a feast. The vegetables alongside are salad and rapée. It feels like French cooking with no stiff shoulders. Very good indeed!
And then, the confit of young chicken.
A confit so tender it falls apart, and sooo soft.
Because the outside is seared crisp, you get crisp outside and falling-apart inside, a lovely contrast of textures! This one is delicious too.
Two kinds of jelly and chocolate ice cream. Hot coffee.
Mmm, that was good!
Before the move it was below ground, but the new place is on the first floor with very large windows that let light pour in, and my impression is that it has become a bright, pleasant spot ^^. And for 1,650 yen that is rather good value, is it not. There is plenty of volume too, so adding the hors d’oeuvre would probably fill you right up. Once they are properly open and new dishes appear, I think I will stop by again!
Hostellerie Suzuki (French / Nogizaka Station, Roppongi Station, Aoyama-itchome Station)
Tabelog lunch rating ★★★☆☆ 3.5
I ate here and paid for it myself. Nothing on this site is a comped meal.
One more for the road?
