Hamburg Will, Shinjuku-Gyoemmae: An All-Pork Patty, and a Queue That Never Breaks

A note on the words: hamburg steak, called hambagu in Japan, is a Japanese-style minced-meat patty served without a bun, here said to be made from 100% pork. Onsen tamago is a soft slow-poached egg with a custard-like yolk and milky white, served here free of charge to break into the sauce midway through. Yuzu kosho is a spicy, fragrant paste made from chili peppers and yuzu citrus peel, offered as one of the house sauces alongside demi-glace and cream mustard. Nankotsu is cartilage, listed as one of the toppings.

Hamburg Will

Hamburg Will on Tabelog (English) — opening hours, payment details and the Japanese address are kept up to date there, not here.

Hello, this is Hangover Meshi. Near Shinjuku-gyoemmae Station there is a solid cluster of highly rated restaurants, and one of them is this hamburg steak shop, “Hamburg Will”. I had long wanted to check it out, but hearing word that the line gets quite long kept me from going. However, I happened to have a bit of free time and figured waiting in line for a bit would be fine, so I made my first visit!

Hamburg Will

The queue forms in two spots in front of the shop: on the left, and once that fills up, on the right.
By the time I arrived around ten minutes before opening, the left side was already full so I queued on the right. Even after opening, the line never broke! Impressive.

Hamburg Will
Dishes to look for

Plain — 1,380 yen

Coarse black pepper — 1,480 yen

Mozzarella cheese — 1,580 yen

Nankotsu (cartilage) — 1,580 yen

Pancetta bacon — 1,680 yen

Red-wine-braised hamburg — 1,780 yen

I managed to make it in on the first seating, which was a relief.

Hamburg Will

The sauce choices are yuzu kosho, demi-glace, and cream mustard sauce. A free onsen tamago is amazing hospitality!
This time I went with mozzarella cheese paired with cream mustard, and made it an A Course with salad and an iced coffee.

Mozzarella cheese

And so, the courses were served in turn.

Chilled corn potage soup

Chilled corn potage soup

Being cold, it is perfect for the hot season; well chilled, its crisp sweetness stands right out.

Salad (+480 yen)

Salad (+480 yen)

The salad, with its little bit of meat, is very nice.

広告
味の素 ノ・ミカタ 30本入
¥2,128 前後 Amazon 楽天市場
ウコンの力 ウコンエキスドリンク 100ml×6本
¥1,274 前後 Amazon 楽天市場

Mozzarella cheese + cream mustard sauce (1,580 yen)

Mozzarella cheese + cream mustard sauce (1,580 yen)

Mmm, that looks delicious.

Cutting into it, cheese comes oozing out from within! It looks fantastic.

Mozzarella cheese + cream mustard sauce (1,580 yen)

Taking a bite, yes, it is delicious. Apparently it is a 100% pork hamburg steak, and the richness of the fat comes through strongly. The sauce is a cream mustard where a pleasant tang provides a lovely accent. It goes very well with the cheese. However, since it is 100% pork, anyone who prefers a meatier, firmer texture in their hamburg steak might find it slightly lacking? Midway through, breaking the onsen tamago and swirling it into the sauce is delicious.

Plain + demi-glace sauce (1,380 yen)

Plain + demi-glace sauce (1,380 yen)

Here is the demi-glace sauce. The mildly sweet sauce is delicious.

Thank you for the meal!

With the line never ending, I felt there was no doubt about its popularity. While queuing makes me feel it might be better to go once the weather cools down a bit, it really is delicious, so I recommend anyone curious about a 100% pork hamburg steak give it a try.

Those who prefer a meatier hamburg steak might find it slightly lacking?

Hamburg Will (Hamburg steak / Shinjuku-gyoemmae Station, Sendagaya Station, Yotsuya-sanchome Station)
Tabelog lunch rating ★★★☆☆ 3.4

I ate here and paid for it myself. Nothing on this site is a comped meal.